The Shoulders: Where Fit Begins
The shoulder seam is the single most important element of suit fit and the one that is hardest to alter. The seam should sit precisely at the edge of your shoulder, neither hanging over nor pulling inward.
The Chest: Room to Move, Not to Swim
When buttoned, a suit jacket should lay flat across the chest with no pulling or gaping at the button. You should be able to slip a flat hand inside the jacket, but no more.
The Waist: Suppression and Shape
A well-fitted jacket should show a slight waist suppression, a gentle narrowing at the waist that creates shape without restricting movement. This is one of the most common and effective alterations a tailor can make.
The Sleeves: Length and Pitch
Jacket sleeves should end approximately half an inch above the shirt cuff, allowing the shirt to show. The sleeve pitch affects how the jacket hangs and moves.
The Trousers: Break, Rise, and Seat
Trouser fit is a matter of personal preference. A full break is traditional and formal. A half break is versatile. No break is modern and casual. The rise should be comfortable without excess fabric.
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